The Last Collection by Jeanne Mackin

 

A Novel of Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel

“The thirties was a golden age of couture, and it was dominated by one city: Paris, and that city was dominated by two women: Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli.”

Paris, 1938. Lily Sutter, art teacher, arrives in Paris to meet with her brother, who is visiting the city. While picking a dress at Elsa Schiaparelli’s boutique, Lily meets the famous designer again. Later through her brother’s girlfriend, she also meets Coco Chanel. Lily becomes “friends” with both fashion designers. Her short visit turns into a longer stay. She uses her artistic abilities to paint Elsa’s boutique windows.

Thus, Lily works for flamboyant Elsa, but at the same time she feels drawn to elegant Coco. In a way, both fashion icons use Lily for their rivalry as they both continuously fight for reputation and fame. “They were ambitious, sometimes vain, always talented, a new type of women who made their own rules.”

With the brewing political situation and talks of Hitler invading Paris, Elsa also has something else in mind for Lily. She needs to protect her daughter.

In general, I don’t like stories, which are propelled by rivalry, but I didn’t mind this one. It actually added some humor to the story. I enjoyed the views of two icons of each other. Coco, “That Italian arrivista was turning women into clowns. Dresses with silly buttons as big as tennis balls, flopping feathers all over the place, trains three yards long, animal embroideries and sequins like circus performer costumes.”

There is much depth to the interesting characters and their very different styles of fashion. Coco – epitome of style, simple and classy. Shiap – representing verve and confidence with bold colors and frippery. Dimensions are interestingly expressed, how the styles of fashion of those two icons reflect their childhoods. The characters are charged with emotions, making them very real.

The world of couture comes alive with designs of the two icons, fashion shows and what goes around them. Set against the brewing political situation, which brings effects of it on businesses and people. 

Enjoyed the writing very much. It moves the story quickly. Beautifully crafted story brings the rich world of fashion and two icons who forged that world. Intimately presented, we get to know both women on both sides, public and private.

Release date: 11 August 2020

Publisher: Berkley Books