Blackberry & Wild Rose by Sonia Velton

 “Esther’s character is loosely inspired by Anna Maria Garthwaite, the foremost designer of Spitalfields silks during the mid-eighteenth century. She is credited with bringing the artistry of painting to the loom, although her success predated the industrial troubles of the Spitalfields silk industry by some years. Many of her patterns and silks have survived and can be seen in the Victoria and Albert Museum (London).

The eighteenth century Spitalfields silk weavers were a militant bunch and formed our early trade unions, then called combinations. The industrial tensions between the journeyman weavers and the master weavers are accurate and culminated in sporadic riots, during which the ‘cutters’ would cut and destroy the master’s silk as punishment for not co-operating with the combinations.”

The story is set in the second part of the 18th century in Spitalfields, London.

Sara Kemp, as a young girl from the country, arrives in London with an image of “wide, clean streets lined with tall houses, their windows framing elegant parlours.” Instead she lands in some filthy streets straight into the clutches of Mrs. Swann, a brothel keeper.

Esther Thorel has been married to Elias Thorel for four years; a fine master silk weaver. A trade he has learned from his father. And his father’s father “had learned the craft on the famous looms of Lyon (France), but when Huguenots could no longer live in peace in their homeland, his grandfather had escaped bringing nothing with him save this exquisite silk.”

Elias lets a journeyman weaver, Bisby Lamber, use a free loom standing at his attic in exchange for Bisby being able to obtain master status and Elias selling his work.

Esther is a painter herself and once imagined that their union of their talents would be fruitful. But as soon as she shows her husband flowers she painted in a repeating pattern, hoping he could use it as a design for his weaving, that’s when she realizes how wrong she was. As a result she retreats into charity work.

One day, as she is delivering the Bibles to the church, rain catches her. She hides in a tiny alleyway under an overhung house, a style built before the Great Fire. She sees this as a sign from God. And that’s when she meets Sara, who crosses the alleyway.

Esther hires Sara as a maidservant.

Esther sees new hope with the new weaver. She approaches him without her husband’s knowledge. As much as her husband was discouraging, Bisby is very encouraging. He explains to Esther that she needs to transcribe her design onto point paper in order for a weaver to be able to read her design. And at her persistence, he teaches her how to weave.

As any other trade, the weavers’ trade is controlled by masters. The weavers make very little money, never enough to pay fees to become a master, and not to mention to purchase own looms and materials to start a business. This leads to many revolts and a process where two men are involved. One lives, one hangs.

The voices of these two women alternate, weaving a vivid story, which is engaging from the very first page to the very last one. The language is sharp, revealing characters of two strong women.

If you’d like to read more about silk business particularly silkwomen of 15th century London – Figures in Silk by Vanora Bennett

If you enjoy stories of alternating voices and lesser-known women who made their mark in history – Remarkable Creatures by Tracy Chevalier

Release Date: May 7, 2019

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