Figures in Silk by Vanora Bennett

Set in the second half of the 15th century London, during the time when Edward IV is restored to the throne and later his brother Richard III takes the reign.

This story brings to light the world of silkwomen of the 15th century London and their partnership with mercers to do business together. Inevitably, training in the same households and marrying.

Isabel, a daughter of silk merchant, gets married to Thomas Claver, a son of wealthy silk family/dynasty. In Isabel’s father’s eyes embroidery of church vestments is the only appropriate thing to do for women her station. Once she marries Thomas, her role changes. She gets to learn the business of silk. She starts from the very bottom, learning “repetitive, menial tasks of retail silkwork first.” Next she accompanies Alice, Thomas’ mother, “to meetings with foreign silk merchants and aristocratic clients.” Then, she travels with Alice “to the trade fairs at Bruges and Antwerp,” where she learns “how to make the large-scale wholesale deals considered the pinnacle of achievement for a silk merchant.” With time her experience expends as well as her dream. She dreams about the secretive silk-weaving business for which Venetians are famous for.

The first part of the book seems to be more concentrated on the story of Alice and her ambitions. The second part brings more history of the ending conflict of the Wars of the Roses. Isabel is a fictional character, but her sister Jane is based on a true character of Jane Shore, mistress to King Edward IV. The house of Alice Claver, Thoma’s mother, is heavily based on “wills and bills of sale and other documentary evidence in the archive of the Merchers’ Company.”

This beautiful story sheds light on two things, the secretive world of the silkweaving and the character of a strong woman who goes below her status to gain her freedom in the world dominated and controlled by men. And the only way to gain that freedom was once woman became widow, she had her choice.

This is a story for those who have appreciation for arts, especially handcrafts. If you liked The Lady and the Unicorn or Girl with a Pearl Earring both by Tracy Chevalier, then you most likely will appreciate this book.

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